Clove and Hoof opened last November in a former corner liquor store.

Clove and Hoof opened last November in a former corner liquor store.

The story: The Broadway corridor between Rockridge and Temescal in Oakland is undergoing a food transformation, with the arrival of a Blue Bottle Cafe, freshly opened Trueburger and adjacent Cafe Underwood. But one of the more prominent arrivals is Clove and Hoof, a butchery and casual restaurant at the corner of Broadway and 40th in a former liquor store. Owners Analiesa Gosnell and John Blevins have roots in butchery (she’s from Cafe Rouge and he’s worked with 4505 Meats) and they’ve created a new neighborhood hangout for meat lovers.

Why I went: I live up the street on Broadway, and while I can walk to Rockridge, Temescal or Piedmont Avenue to try an assortment of new eateries, the Oakland corridor is the quickest walk for me — simply a 10-minute stroll to Clove and Hoof. Since it’s only been open a couple of months, it’s currently opened just during the days so I visited a few times for lunch on the weekends. There are plans for dinner service down the road.

The vibe: Early you get an older crowd or families with young kids, but during the peak lunch hour the hipster Oakland crowd hungering for fancy eats nearby come stumbling in. Although the restaurant is more casual than the nearby Hog’s Apothecary, the vibe is a bit more high-end (as far as I could tell by the way they dress), maybe because they’re the ones who can afford the premium prices for the sandwiches.

The dining area includes several tables in the main area and a few counter seats by the windows. During the day the space is bright and open.

The dining area includes several tables in the main area and a few counter seats by the windows. During the day the space is bright and open.

The menu: Since they’re just starting with a lunch menu, the options are primarily sandwiches. And as a butchery, the sandwiches mostly highlight meat, from the pork and lamb meatball sandwich to the two 2-ounce beef patty C & H burger to the red-wine braised short ribs. There are comfort-food favorites like fried chicken and chili dog (made with a beef, bacon and cheddar sausage), and a unique “Hangover Special” made of breakfast sausage, kim chi relish with a fried egg sunny side up. There are a couple of salads and five or six sides that changes but currently include items like a daily cassoulet (made with the special sausage of the day), French fries, potato salad and cole slaw. The main sandwiches range in cost from $11 to $15, and that might seem on the high end but that’s because the meat are all locally sourced from ranchers who’ve raised their animals humanely. I’m sometimes concerned about value dining, but despite the high price, I feel the quality and generous portion size make it worth the cost.

My favorite dish: Hands down the Hangover Special ($11) with the breakfast sausage and fried egg is a must-order. The meat is cooked perfectly to your taste and the slight kim chi relish gives it a subtle kick, blending with the beef. The potato pepper bun griddled with maple gave a slight sweet edge to balance everything out, not to mention the oozing egg yolk to cure any hangover.

Hangover Special ($11) with breakfast sausage, kim chi relish and fried egg on a potato pepper bun.

Hangover Special ($11) with breakfast sausage, kim chi relish and fried egg on a potato pepper bun.

Insider tip: Early on, Chef Blevins seems to like to stuff cheese into his meats, such as in the hamburger stuffed with pimento cheese. So if you’re lactose-intolerant, you might ask if there’s any hidden cheese in your meat.

The last bite: Clove and Hoof is a unique neighborhood butchery, offering up quality cuts butchered from whole animals while also serving as a gathering spot for neighbors to dine on premium sandwiches that are creative and tasty.

The rating: 2.5 out of 4 camera snaps

2.5snaps

 

 

The deets: Clove and Hoof, 4001 Broadway (at 40th Street), Oakland. PH: 510.547.1446. Currently Wednesday through Sundays, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. No reservations. Major credit cards accepted. www.cloveandhoofoakland.com

Lamb and pork meatball sandwich ($12) had a nice charmoula tomato sauce with fermented chili mayo with Gruyere on a hero roll. I love the sauce although the meatballs were slightly on the dry side.

Lamb and pork meatball sandwich ($12) had a nice charmoula tomato sauce with fermented chili mayo with Gruyere on a hero roll. I love the sauce although the meatballs were slightly on the dry side.

Smoked potato salad side with white BBQ sauce ($4). Could definitely detect a smoke flavor.

Smoked potato salad side with white BBQ sauce ($4). Could definitely detect a smoke flavor.

Light streams in through the window facing Broadway along the counter seats.

Light streams in through the window facing Broadway along the counter seats.

Pork belly for sale!

Pork belly for sale!

Home-made stock is available for sale in the refrigerated section.

Home-made stock is available for sale in the refrigerated section.

A closer look inside of my favorite dish, the Hangover Special. The maple-griddled buns are a nice touch.

A closer look inside of my favorite dish, the Hangover Special. The maple-griddled buns are a nice touch.

Pickled jars line the high shelves near a cow head.

Pickled jars line the high shelves near a cow head.

I really like the molding on all the tables and chairs.

I really like the molding on all the tables and chairs.

Smoked pork shoulder sandwich ($12) with Georgia mustard BBQ sauce, slaw, and honey jalapenos on a potato pepper bun. The pork was tender but it takes some getting used to the mustard BBQ sauce instead of tradition brown sauce.

Smoked pork shoulder sandwich ($12) with Georgia mustard BBQ sauce, slaw, and honey jalapenos on a potato pepper bun. The pork was tender but it takes some getting used to the mustard BBQ sauce instead of tradition brown sauce.

Ceramic cow next to a roll of butcher paper.

Ceramic cow next to a roll of butcher paper.

A sculpture of what looks like a dancing piglet.

A sculpture of what looks like a dancing piglet.

4 Responses to A Review of Clove and Hoof — Whole Animal Butchery and Restaurant in Oakland

  1. Row says:

    THANK YOU for posting a photo of the inside of the Hangover Special… what a glorious shot! I’d go through a ton of napkins while eating that sandwich, but it would be worth the messiness. *drools*

  2. Carolyn Jung says:

    I’m envious. I wish there was a place like this near me. I’d love a butcher shop like that, which also served primo sammies.

  3. Chris J says:

    No mention that I recall of the godawful pun in their name–or maybe I missed it. I enjoy hitting these specialty restaurants as it inspires me to head on home and recreate them on my own…though at a price I can choose to pay regularly.

    Is that wrong?

    • Ben Ben says:

      I think it’s great when you get inspired by something you eat at a restaurant and try to replicate it at home. Nothing wrong with that! 🙂