Doughnut Dolly was a term used in London for women who brought doughnuts and coffee to the troops during WWI. But a two-month-old donut shop of the same name that opened in Oakland is not a throwback to war times but an elegant modern bakeshop.
The tiny store opened in what’s known as Alley 49 – two rows of small businesses selling everything from clothing to coffee to furniture (there’s even a barber shop) – all off of 49th Street in the Temescal neighborhood.
Doughnut Dolly owner Hannah Hoffman used the online fund-raising site Kickstarter to help her open the shop, where she serves organic, freshly fried sugared doughnuts that are hand-filled with specialty flavors. When I visited this morning, the three featured flavors were wild yellow plum jam, Seascape strawberry, and her signature “Naughty Cream” (crème fraiche with vanilla bean).
Hoffman fills each doughnut ($3 each) after you’ve ordered, using a German contraption. She says filling the doughnut right before it’s eaten makes sure that the filling isn’t absorbed into the dough. Her doughnuts were nice and airy, and the Naughty Cream wasn’t naughty as much as it was decadent, with the light crème fraiche making this one sophisticated doughnut.
Doughnut Dolly’s doughnuts are best eaten right away to enjoy the freshness, so get there early because Hoffman is opened till 3 p.m. or when she runs out. I have a feeling she closes early often.
Doughnut Dolly, 482B 49th St. (at Telegraph), Oakland. Open Wed.–Sun., from 8 a.m.–3 p.m. PH: 510.338.6738 www.doughnutdolly.com
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