The team behind Beretta has created an empire, and they’re running like clockwork with its Marina outpost known as Delarosa.
Compared to the eclectic Beretta in the Mission and the cozy Starbelly in the Castro, Delarosa is like the new kid who’s also the show off in the family. Brass, bright, and proud, the spacious dining room attracts young families and Marina couples with its Roman-style pizzas and pasta.
Like all the other restaurants by Adriano Paganini and Deborah Blum, Delarosa doesn’t take reservations (unless you’re a party of six or more). You can often find a spot at the picnic-style tables, the high-top communal table, the wide bar, or the popular tables outside on the sidewalk.
The menu by Chef Ruggero Gadaldi seems to be more varied than Beretta’s and Starbelly’s. For example, I don’t recall the latter two serving spiedini, which are Italian-style skewers. But like Beretta and Starbelly, fresh, seasonal ingredients shine at Delarosa, such as in a beautiful carpaccio salad made of thinly sliced gold and red beets, topped with arugula and shaved ricotta salata.
When I visited once with my friend Ken, we had the clam pizza ($17) topped with provolone, garlic and soffrito. The clam flavor is always so unique for a pizza, and Delarosa’s chewy crust holds up to the moisture of the clam juice and tomatoes. At another time, I had an enjoyable pumpkin ravioli ($10) made with classic flavors of brown butter and crispy sage.
While the food is satisfying and the choices plenty, it’s the service that keeps this place packed. Servers are friendly, bartenders are jovial, and the bus staff keeps the plates coming and going at a clip pace. That’s why I believe of the three restaurants, Delarosa is where this restaurant team has got everything right.
Rating: 3 out of 4 camera snaps
Delarosa, 2175 Chestnut St., San Francisco. PH: 415.673.7100. Open for daily from 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m., weekend brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. No reservations, major credit cards accepted. delarosasf.com
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