I was first introduced to the Cambodian food of Nyum Bai when it was a pop up stand at the Emeryville Public Market. I enjoyed the Southeast Asian flavors of the rice bowls served with soup, or bae, and limited selection of noodles and salads.

Very little of that food stand menu makes it to the brick-and-mortar restaurant opened earlier this year in Oakland’s Fruitvale neighborhood, but Nyum Bai and chef/owner Nite Yun still bring the flavor of Cambodian with their comfort food and street delicacies.

I went to check out the spot for dinner this weekend, and summer is a perfect time to experience the vibe of Nyum Bai. The outdoor patio with hanging light bulbs makes you feel like you’re eating street side on a warm summer night in Southeast Asia. The tiny indoor space feels airy, modern and bright, and shares a spot with a takeout window.

Chef Yun’s menu is promoted as comfort food of Cambodia served in a 60s Rock N’ Roll nostalgia (I guess from the music and the decor on the walls of old photos). The street food influence comes through with several deep-fried selections (A LOT of deep fried food) like crispy spring rolls, ginger fried chicken and fried catfish.

Still, I was able to find something to eat. I like how the menu gives background on some of the favorites or classic dishes of Cambodia, such as the prahok ktiss ($13), a dip made with slow simmered pork bellly and served with seasonal vegetables. It’s like a Cambodian crudites platter.

Prahok ktiss is considered a dip that starts a family meal, and I enjoyed the tradition of snacking on vegetables and dipping them in the prahok ktiss that’s like ground pork. In fact, the sauce reminded me of a good bolognese.

Another popular dish is a simple stir-fry of water spinach or cha tah-koun ($11). This is a common dish in Chinese households as well (I grew up calling it “ong choi” that’s a vegetable that’s like a water weed with tubular stems). It carries the funky flavor of salted beans and garlic.

For my entree I ordered a kuri, or chicken curry dish ($14) that’s a beautiful yellow curry that’s mild and on the sweet side. Everything was cooked well, but despite the low cost, don’t expect a lot in the bowl (I think I got maybe three chunks of chicken thighs with maybe three potatoes?).

Dessert only has one option, which is fried sesame balls (so yeah, skipped it). The drink menu has several cold drinks like Thai iced tea and cold brew matcha, and a nice selection of beer on tap. I tried a tea beer called “Golden State of Mind” ($7) from Ales Industries in Oakland that was citrusy and felt lighter in alcohol (but in the end I was craving a real beer).

The last bite
Nyum Bai has gotten a lot of attention since opening. In fact, Chef Yun was just named to San Francisco Chronicle’s annual list of “Rising Stars” chefs. When I was there, several people came looking for a table (there’s no reservations), interesting in trying out more. Nyum Bai is introducing new flavors to Fruitvale in a casual and welcoming spot, and I’m excited to try more.

The rating: 3 out of 4 camera snaps

The deets: Nyum Bai, 334o E. 12th St., Suite 11, Oakland. PH: 510.500.3338. Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday. No reservations. Major credit cards accepted. www.nyumbai.com